This post completes the two previous ones already published about Venice.
Venice is a majestic city. But it faces mass tourism. Indeed, the flow of travelers is impressive, especially as numerous flight connections link the city to the world’s major cities.
Although many measures have been taken—such as banning cruise ships in the lagoon, implementing a €20 daily fee to enter the city for those not staying overnight, and prohibiting picnics, to name just a few—the gondola traffic jams, crowds of tourists on the bridges, packed vaporettos, and long queues to visit monuments at a rushed pace can really spoil a trip.
Here’s a short guide to help make your visit to Venice a moment of grace rather than a nightmare of mass tourism. I’ll base it on a recent trip, so what follows is entirely subjective.
Choosing the right time of year
Timing is key. In my opinion, the best times of year to visit are from late September to mid-February and from mid-March to mid-May.
Of course, weather can be a concern, but you could easily travel in July and get a week of rain, or pick a week in November and enjoy sunshine...
As for high waters (Aqua Alta) between September and February, they’ve become rarer thanks to the construction of sea barriers.
Unless you specifically want to attend the Venice Carnival, avoid the late February–early March period.
Getting there and transport
You can fly in and reach the city by water—either via vaporetto or by water taxi (much more expensive but more private and flexible).
You can also take the train, with the Frecciarossa line available from Paris, Lyon, and Chambéry. The journey through the Alps between Lyon and Turin is stunning. Expect a transfer in Milan. The Paris–Milan line offers comfortable conditions (4 available classes) and friendly, welcoming staff. The Milan–Venice staff, on the other hand, tend to be grumpy and unwelcoming, which gives you a preview of the tourist reception in Venice.
Make sure to choose Santa Lucia station as your arrival point—there are two stations serving Venice.
The train’s arrival across the Venetian lagoon is magnificent.
Stepping out of the station delivers a real wow moment! The calls of seagulls, the silence from the absence of cars, the Grand Canal, and the majestic buildings create a scene that truly captivates the traveler.
It’s best to book your vaporetto pass in advance—you’ll just need to collect it from a machine. Get a pass for the full length of your stay; it also includes trips to the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello. Of course, if your budget is unlimited, a water taxi that follows your own itinerary is an option.
A useful multilingual app for vaporettos: Che Bateo.
Accommodation in Venice
There are countless options!
Personally, I prefer hotels with professional service. Here are a few hotel suggestions—though there are also many apartment rentals available.
Hotel Giorgione
4 stars
To me, an absolute must. A palazzo from 1300, no less, and the only one on the island with its own pool (well, "pool" is a stretch—it’s more of a very large jacuzzi where you might swim if you’re alone).
The staff is welcoming, the rooms have historical charm, but the real highlight is the location: just a few minutes' walk from St. Mark’s Square, in a neighborhood still mostly frequented by Venetians.
Returning to the hotel after a day in the city feels like a peaceful retreat.
https://www.hotelgiorgione.com/it
Ca' Nigra Lagoon Resort
4-star superior
This pricier hotel sits on the canals, with two gardens facing the water.
It’s more upscale than the first hotel, located near the station, but farther from the heart of St. Mark’s Square.
https://www.hotelcanigra.com/fr/
Palazzo San Lorenzo
Where Hotel Giorgione preserves the original palazzo feel, Palazzo San Lorenzo opts for elegance and refinement. The decor is a feast for the eyes, the atmosphere a constant delight, and breakfast is a sensory pleasure. In this sense, the hotel perfectly reflects the Venetian spirit. Prices are quite reasonable, and you can choose a room with a canal view.
It’s also very well located, just minutes from St. Mark’s Square, in a relatively quiet yet tourist-friendly area.
https://www.palazzosanlorenzovenezia.com/eng/hotel/
Sightseeing in Venice
A great tip for a peaceful experience: get up early! That way, you can enjoy the majesty of St. Mark’s Square in perfect tranquility. Good to know: visiting the bell tower (campanile) requires good physical fitness and is not recommended for those with respiratory issues.
There’s so much to see in this city, even just wandering through the alleys is a journey through history.
Booking visits in advance online can be complicated. If you're visiting during a low-tourism period, it's often better not to book ahead—or ask your hotel to do it for you once there (usually cash payment).
Be sure to visit key monuments like St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, and La Fenice Theater early in the morning to avoid long lines and selfie-snapping crowds.
You can absolutely skip the tourist trap that is Caffè Florian in St. Mark’s Square, recommended in every guidebook. The prices are absurd, and there’s a €7 fee just for the outside orchestra. Worse still, the staff is rude and the food quality very poor. Avoid it! Instead, head into the side alleys behind the square, which are full of cafes, or try cafés on the opposite side of the square (not tested).
A great alternative: take a break in the Correr Museum café, whose ticket is bundled with the basilica visit and which features some interesting rooms.
Venice by boat – Island visits
To visit Murano, Burano, and Torcello, I highly recommend taking the vaporetto instead of organized tours. It gives you more flexibility. Count 10 minutes to Murano, and 50 minutes to Burano.
As for the glassworks, again, no need to book ahead. On-site, workshop visits are free and glass masters will let you watch them at work. That way, you avoid the paid and rushed group tours with 12-minute demos to make way for the next group. Locals are generally welcoming.
Burano, though much smaller, is a bit unusual. True, its colorful houses and tiny canals are charming, but the locals don’t seem to tolerate tourists—they display passive-aggressive or even openly hostile behavior. Odd, considering the many souvenir shops clearly keep the declining village afloat.
If you're planning to have lunch on the islands, I recommend choosing Murano instead.
Tour of Venice by vaporetto
If you enjoy riding the vaporetto, hop on line 4 or 5 to make a full loop around Venice.
You can complete the experience with line 1, which navigates the Grand Canal.
And now, the gondola ride.
Good news: gondola prices are regulated, so you can choose any gondola.
To fully enjoy the experience, avoid the main gondola boarding areas, which are crowded. Wander through side alleys and smaller canals—you’ll find gondoliers ready to take you on a much more peaceful ride.
Important: go in the morning or late evening if you want a nighttime crossing. Avoid the afternoon, especially after 4–5 p.m., when gondola traffic jams occur and gondoliers start yelling at each other!
Vivaldi’s Four Seasons
Venice is Vivaldi’s hometown. The concerts at San Vidal Church are performed by excellent musicians. You can book in the morning for the evening performance (via the hotel or your smartphone), and it’s best to arrive 30–40 minutes early as seating is unassigned.
Afterward, enjoy strolling through the neighborhood and perhaps have a drink or dinner nearby.
Restaurants, bars, and cafés in Venice
There’s no shortage of options!
Restaurants, gelaterias, cafés, bars, and pizzerias... The selection is overwhelming!
Here are a few tried-and-tested recommendations—all with vegetarian options (though of course, there are many more worth discovering).
Trattoria Ali d’Oro
Located just opposite Palazzo San Lorenzo, with a terrace on the canal. The food is basic but traditionally Italian, so still quite flavorful. It’s homemade with fresh ingredients, and the staff is friendly. Most importantly, dining by the calm canal is a real privilege.
https://restaurantguru.it/Ali-doro-Venice
Osteria Ai Do Gobbi
An excellent restaurant tucked into a side street, serving refined ingredients. You can order any dish or dessert with your eyes closed. Great wine selection, peaceful ambiance.
https://osteriaaidogobbi.com
Vecia Cavana
A restaurant with a timeless charm, nestled in a quiet alley just steps from the Ca’ d’Oro vaporetto stop. You’ll eat well, and the atmosphere is both cozy and full of character. Excellent service. This is a spot where you can truly enjoy a traditional Venetian meal, with generous portions and good wine.
https://veciacavana.marsillifamiglia.it/en
A few final words…
Venice deserves more than just a rushed visit. Let yourself slow down. Wake up early to feel the city before the crowds, get lost in the maze of alleyways, and savor the golden light reflecting on the canals in the evening.
There’s a certain magic that reveals itself when you take the time to wander without a plan, listen to the echo of your footsteps on the stone, or stumble upon a hidden courtyard. That’s the real Venice.
Photographs : Fuji Xt3, Fuji lenses 16 mm 1.4, 27 mm 2.8, 18-135 3.5-5.6